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Origin: Designed by Peter Moore and released on 1 January 2005 as part of Nike's Dunk SB line. This release has the Black/Black-Black colourway. Nike SB's early years produced the shoes that made the line's reputation, and its artist projects were the most extreme of them. Pushead is one of those names, an illustrator whose work came out of hardcore punk and metal artwork rather than sportswear, and putting that on a Dunk Low was the kind of decision SB made when the division was still small enough to take risks. This is the first of the pair of releases in that series. It arrived from a company whose earliest identity was athletic and corporate, founded in 1964 as Blue Ribbon Sports to import Onitsuka Tiger, which makes the punk illustration angle even sharper.
Construction: The SB Dunk Low Pro chassis, which is a standard Dunk rebuilt for skateboarding: a thicker padded tongue, a cushioned collar and an impact absorbing insole under the same low profile cupsole. That tooling gives board feel and grip on griptape, and its tread thinking descends from the waffle sole Bill Bowerman created by pouring rubber into his wife's waffle iron, the founding piece of Nike engineering. On an artist project the upper carries printed and panelled artwork, so the graphic panels are the fragile part of the shoe and the tooling is the durable part. Skate them and the outer toe wears first; keep them and the print is what you are preserving.
Utility: Artwork uppers want plain clothing. Wear with black or indigo baggy denim and a plain tee so the graphic panels are the only pattern, or with grey sweat shorts and a black hoodie for a straightforward skate fit. SB Dunks fit slightly snug due to the padding, so take the larger size when you are between. If you plan to skate them, accept that the print will scuff and treat that as patina; if you plan to keep them, they are dry weather only. Clean with a soft brush and barely damp cloth, never soak printed panels, and store away from direct sunlight, which fades graphic inks faster than anything else.
Influence: Nike SB's engagement with underground music imagery has a documented cautionary tale attached. In 2005 the line appropriated Minor Threat's 1981 album art for a tour flyer, drawing a public rebuke from Ian MacKaye, an apology from Nike on 27 June 2005 and an out of court settlement. Working directly with an illustrator from that world is the other model, credited and commissioned rather than borrowed. It fits a wider pattern of Nike bringing artists inside, which later extended to Takashi Murakami designing a Nike related digital work. Early SB artist Dunks are collected today precisely because they came from the period when those relationships were being figured out in public.